Deck repair on a budget

There comes a time in the life of some decks where cleaning and refinishing the deck boards simply isn't enough. Splintering, cracking, missing fasteners and other structural problems have taken their toll, and nothing is going to solve the problems and refurbish the deck except complete replacement of those worn-out boards.

Replacing deck boards is certainly not an insurmountable problem, but it does require a fair amount of work. However, done correctly the end result will be a deck that is virtually brand-new, and is less expensive and less work than replacing the entire deck structure.

First, remove any deck furniture and other objects on the deck. If railings or other structures will interfere with removal of the boards, it may be necessary to remove them as well. For decks more than 30 inches above the ground, you will need to either leave the railings in place and work around them, or else install some sturdy, temporary railings for fall protection. Next, clean the deck with a thorough sweeping or by blowing it off with a high-speed leaf blower. This is an important step, as it reveals the fasteners and makes it easier to access them for removal.

For removal, you will need some basic tools as well as some safety gear for your protection. Gloves should be worn to protect against splinters and broken fasteners, as well as safety glasses. You will be on your knees for a good portion of this project, so a good set of knee pads will be a welcome accessory for both comfort and to protect against kneeling on a protruding fastener.

If the decking was installed with nails, you can remove any that are protruding up above the surface by prying them out using a flat bar or other type of crow bar -- you'll find a wide variety of bars available at any home center or hardware store. Bars are preferred over a claw hammer for pulling nails, as they provide more leverage and, because the handle can't break like a hammer's can, they are much safer. However, avoid the bargain-bin bars! These imported bars are junk, and they can easily snap and send pieces of metal flying!

If you need additional leverage to remove a stubborn nail, slip a block of wood under the head of the bar. Also, keep a bucket nearby to toss the nails into as you pull them. If you have access to the underside of the deck, you can tap up on the underside of the board to lift it above the joist, then tap it back down from above and see if the nail head remains elevated enough to get the head of the bar under it for removal.

For nail heads that remain at or below the surface of the wood, your best bet is an old carpenter's friend called a cat's paw. A cat paw is a steel tool about 6 to 8 inches long, with a head that is curved at 90 degrees to the handle. The head is slotted in a V-groove to get under the nail head, and is pointed and sharpened to penetrate easily into the wood. Position the points of the head against the wood on either side of the nail, then drive the tool into the wood so that the slot slips under the head of the nail. Pivot the tool back, and you'll be able to pull up the nail. ...CONTINUED

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