Flooded crawlspace demands action
Property likely needs French drains, sump pump or foundation vents
By Barry Stone, Tuesday, July 1, 2008.Dear Barry,
I recently discovered about 3 to 4 inches of standing water under my house. I pumped out the water and removed the plastic sheets that covered the ground so the soil can dry out. Once the ground is dry, should I spread lime over the surface to help prevent mold? And should I also reinstall the plastic sheets? --Steve
Dear Steve,
Mold prevention is not necessary unless you have moisture on cellulose materials. Wet soil will not support mold growth. Therefore, lime is not needed on the ground surface under your home.
The purpose of the plastic membrane is to prevent ground moisture from evaporating and causing humidity and condensation in the crawlspace. If faulty ground drainage causes flooding above the plastic, then the plastic serves no useful purpose and does not need to be replaced.
The primary concern in this case is the drainage problem. To solve this, you should have the property evaluated by a geotechnical engineer (drainage specialist) to determine the water source and the best means of preventing future water intrusion. The engineer might recommend French drains around your home, a sump pump under or around the building, and possibly both. Once this is done, replacement of the plastic membrane may be advisable, but additional foundation vents might also be needed to minimize humidity and condensation.
Dear Barry,
The exhaust fan in my bathroom ceiling is connected to a metal duct in the attic. This duct terminates next to a screened vent at the eaves. Should this vent duct terminate on the outside of the building, or is it OK to terminate on the inside of the attic vent? What does the building code require? --Cindy
Dear Cindy,
According to the International Residential Code, a bathroom should be vented to the exterior either by an openable window or by means of "a mechanical ventilation system....exhausted directly to the outside." At first glance, one would assume that "exhausted directly to the outside" requires a vent shaft terminating at the exterior of the building. But building codes are interpreted by the agencies that enforce them. And many newly constructed homes have bathroom vent ducts that terminate at screened openings in attics. It would appear, therefore, that some building officials are opting for that interpretation of the code. To determine the specific legal outlook for bathroom ventilation in your area, consult your local building department.
Dear Barry,
Is it a bad idea to vent an electric clothes dryer into an unfinished basement or crawlspace to help keep the floor a little warmer? With fuel costs so high, why waste the warm air from the dryer? --Chris
Dear Chris,
This question has been a recurrent issue in this column. To summarize past articles, there are three reasons not to vent a clothes dryer into your basement or crawlspace:
1) Increased humidity can promote the growth of mold and fungus in your home.
2) Dryer lint can accumulate and is regarded as a fire hazard.
3) Venting a clothes dryer into a building is a code violation, because of reasons #1 and #2.
To write to Barry Stone, please visit him on the Web at www.housedetective.com.
***
What's your opinion? Leave your comments below or send a letter to the editor. To contact the writer, click the byline at the top of the story.
All rights reserved. This article may not be used or reproduced in any manner whatsoever, in part or in whole, without written permission of Inman News. Use of this article without permission is a violation of federal copyright law.


You must login or register to post a comment.
Submitted by Cynthia Freeney on July 2, 2008 - 6:08am.
About Steve's crawl space concern:
I agree with Barry when it comes to have in inspected by a drainage specialist. All that accumulated standing water may indicate drainage problems.
But I would not recommend replacing the plastic liner once the drainage problem is fixed and then providing vents into the crawl space. You might think you have created a barrier for the ground water, but you also created a way to let in and then trap in moisture from outside and condensation build up.
There are dozens of independent studies recommending that crawl spaces be encapsulated, preferably with a thick 20mil liner, closed (not vented), sealed tight, and conditioned.
So far, as those studies show, this is the only effective way to prevent moisture problems in crawl spaces.
But you don't need to take my word for it. Here's where you can find several of those studies:
http://www.cralwspaces.org
And some additional information is here:
http://www.dirt-crawl-spaces.com