Sump pump trumps water intrusion
Stay safe with proper setup, power source
By Paul Bianchina, Friday, April 2, 2010.If you have problems with a wet basement or crawl space, you need to take care of all that water before it has a chance to cause structural damage, mold or any number of other nasty problems. For most situations, the best solution is the installation of a sump pump.
A sump pump is a special type of automatic, float-activated submersible pump, designed for this specific purpose. They are relatively inexpensive and fairly easy for the do-it-yourselfer to install.
Pick the right location
The first consideration for the successful operation of a sump pump is selecting and preparing the right location. Since the purpose of the pump is to remove accumulated water, it makes sense that it should be located at the lowest level of the basement or crawlspace.
This is usually easy to determine, as it's the area where the water naturally accumulates. You can look for either puddles of water or water stains on the dirt, concrete floor or stem walls, or on wood framing members. If none are visible, you may need to lay a level on a long board to check for natural slope, or, in the case of a large basement, even use a tripod-mounted transit or laser level. Either of these instruments can be rented from local rental yards.
Once the low spot has been determined, you need to create a hole for the water to accumulate. This hole -- called, not surprisingly, a sump -- is where the pump will sit. It needs to be large enough and deep enough to accommodate the pump, usually at least 2 feet in diameter and 1 to 2 feet deep. A concrete block or a couple of bricks are typically positioned at the bottom of the hole, which will give the pump a stable surface to rest on.
Provide a power source
The sump pump comes with an attached, grounded cord, and you need to provide an electrical outlet nearby for power. The outlet should be as close to the pump's location as possible, but high enough that it will not be affected by the ground water. All components, including the outlet and any metal electrical boxes or covers, must be properly grounded.
If you intend to use an existing outlet that is farther away from the pump than can be accommodated by the cord, only use an extension cord that is grounded and rated for outdoor use, and make sure it's the proper wire size to handle the amperage of the pump.
Specific extension cord gauges and maximum lengths will be provided in the instructions that accompany the specific pump. Do not use any cord that is not approved by the pump's manufacturer. ...CONTINUED
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Submitted by Paul Howard on April 2, 2010 - 1:25pm.
"For most situations, the best solution is the installation of a sump pump."
Sorry. I do not agree. That sounds like the best thing for the company that is going to put in the pump or even the drain system. The BEST solution is to determine why the water is entering in the first place. Virtually ALL waterproofing companies skip that step - anyone reading this that has had a drain system installed should think back to what the company said about outside grading. In any case that I'm aware of - they never mentioned it and with good reason. If the grading is corrected in most cases (but not all) the interior water problem disappears- and so does their job. Even if it doesn't, correcting grading first will make the pump run less.
Talk to a good home inspector. www.ashi.com .
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Paul Howard, Broker
NJHomeBuyer.com Realty
Cherry Hill NJ 08002
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