Q: I have a 40-gallon natural gas water heater that is 5 years old, located at one end of the house and the bathrooms are at the other end. We added a recirculation pump with timer that allows us to get hot water within 5 seconds vs. without, which used to take 60-plus seconds.

However, I have never been able to keep enough hot water going for my wife’s showering. She normally runs the shower for 15 minutes and unless it is at the top of the hot setting, she complains that there is not enough hot water. When we have visitors, it gets even worse. Does this mean we need a bigger-capacity water heater? Are there other solutions besides more capacity?

Q: I have a 40-gallon natural gas water heater that is 5 years old, located at one end of the house and the bathrooms are at the other end. We added a recirculation pump with timer that allows us to get hot water within 5 seconds vs. without, which used to take 60-plus seconds.

However, I have never been able to keep enough hot water going for my wife’s showering. She normally runs the shower for 15 minutes and unless it is at the top of the hot setting, she complains that there is not enough hot water. When we have visitors, it gets even worse. Does this mean we need a bigger-capacity water heater? Are there other solutions besides more capacity?

A: It’s unusual to not have enough hot water with a gas water heater, since they tend to either work or not work — there’s usually plenty of hot water or virtually none at all.

Before undertaking the expense of a new water heater, I would first talk with the utility company that supplies the gas, and have them come out and check the incoming gas pressure and the condition of the burner. Low pressure or a partially clogged burner can cause the problem. I would also suggest shutting the gas, then draining the tank and flushing it with fresh water to remove any sediment.

You might also be having a problem with the dip tube. That’s a plastic tube that sits inside the tank on the cold water side, and directs the incoming cold water down to the bottom of the tank to be heated. If the dip tube cracks or deteriorates, it allows cold water to remain at or near the top of the tank, where it doesn’t have time to get sufficiently heated. You can sometimes — but not always — recognize this problem by the presence of tiny bits of white or gray plastic in the faucet strainers. Replacement dip tubes are available at most home centers and other stores that specialize in retail plumbing parts.

If all that is OK, then the problem is probably one of capacity. A 15-minute shower is pretty long, and will go through a lot of hot water. You could consider low-flow shower heads, or replace your existing water heater with one that has a larger capacity.

Q: Yesterday, I went up in my attic to store some items but couldn’t help noticing something lay on top of my insulation in the attic. I took a flash light to look around and looked up at the truss and saw some orange gel or syrup-looking substance and it seems to run down the side of wood (part of the truss) like syrup. What exactly can this be on that wood (truss) in my attic? Your help is greatly appreciated!

A: What you describe is probably just pitch (also called sap), coming from a pitch pocket inside the wood. It is a sticky liquid when it’s warm enough in the attic, then it dries to a hard, amber-colored solid. Pitch pockets, like knots, can potentially weaken a piece of lumber, but as long as you are only seeing this in an isolated area on one or two of your trusses, it’s nothing to worry about.

If there are a substantial number of areas that have visible pitch pockets, this could potentially indicate that substandard wood was used in the manufacture of the trusses. In that case, I would suggest having an experienced contractor or a representative from a local truss company come out and take a look to be sure that the structural integrity of the roof has not been compromised.

Remodeling and repair questions? E-mail Paul at paulbianchina@inman.com.

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